The story behind Overland Spirit
4 Provinces in 14 Days.
The story behind Overland Spirit begun a long, long time ago, in the capital city of South Africa, Pretoria. Maggie and I got on my motorcycle a BMW 1200 Adventure and did an overland trip. 14 Days of Freezzzdom, Yes, for us this trip turned out to be as enduring and inspiring as one could possibly imagine.
The planned route was going to be an epic round-trip from Pretoria, via Eastern Free State, Eastern Cape, Western Cape, Northern Cape and the dirt highways of the Karoo. Four Provinces in 14 days and a total of 4880km, time of departure 8am on July 2011. Off course I plotted all the GPS coordinates and the photo opportunities on my Garmin GPS.
This was to be our first trip together and my meticulous plan seemed to be a pain for Maggie. Whom I did not know all that well, and we only met three months prior to this trip, working abroad for two of those three months. I quickly learned that Maggie was no planner and that she wore a watch as a jewelry piece, definitely not for its functionality. My scheduled time-frames were also not something she gave any thought too.
We did not leave Pretoria at the planned 8am but only left at 3pm. Granted that we still had to drop off a vehicle in Germiston. A suburb in Johannesburg, approximately 60km from Pretoria and supposedly an hour away. But with peak traffic it took us three hours which was not planned for and at 8 pm, I wanted to call it a day and rather leave the following morning. Of course Maggie persuaded me to at least push threw to Vrede, a very small town in the Free State. The kick-off with regard to our story was about to become real.
Freezing Free State
Day 1
It was not long before we were shrouded in darkness pointing the GSA down the N3 highway towards Vrede. As we crossed the Provincial border from Gauteng to Free state we were met by the Free State icy wintry weather, and the temperature dropped to a mere 1°C.
On our motorcycle, we felt the chilly cold night air to our bones. In fact, the piercing cold was definitely hindering conversation although we had the Sena SMH10 Bluetooth headsets fitted to our helmets, there was no sound from Maggie. She did not breathe a single word to me for two hundred kilometers and not wearing the proper cold weather gear made the ride so well, icy.
Finally we arrived at Maggie’s mom in Vrede and even though we were both shivering we were extremely excited to visit with her. We had some heart warming conversation and settled down for a lovely warm meal. When the conversation died down and the yawns came at more regular intervals it was time for a hot shower and a warm bed.
What I did not expect was an eventful evening, but Maggie decided to wake me up, from a very deep sleep, at 03:00 am. More specifically, she did indeed only had the urge to inform me that she was freezing. Ever since then, to this day I am still wondering what she wanted me to do?
Day 2
The next morning we woke to a fresh beautiful Free State morning. We were definitely not as fresh as the Winter air…. Around 10 am after we had a quick breakfast it was time to say goodbye and start towards our originally set destination, Fouriesburg in the Eastern Free State. As per our itinerary we would stay with our friends for the night, on their beautiful farm called Emden.
We stopped in Warden and lunched at a little sweet spot serving great food. This cozy restaurant was situated right next to a beautiful sandstone church. While overlanding the Free State, you will soon enough realize that these beautiful churches are the landmark of every town. We also learned from riding down the main road of Warden, that horse power has a definite literal meaning. Horses pulling carts on the main road is not an unfamiliar face.
Fouriesburg-
After devouring our scrumptious meal we once again headed straight towards Fouriesburg, just passing through Bethlehem, one of the bigger towns in the Free State. Once we arrived in Fouriesburg, we had a quick thirst quencher and chat, at the Windmill Pub an Grill, owned by Nelis and Li-Ann Roos. If I can recall correctly, the Windmill Pub and Grill, is the only pub that will serve you ice cold Jagermeister on tap, drinking from a test tube.
Fouriesburg is a mere 10 km away from the South African & Lesotho border, Caledonspoort. In fact it is always wise to have your passport with you, when coming here. You never know, you might just have time to go ski at AfriSki Mountain Resort . Or just take a drive on the winding roads of Lesotho, all the while admiring the marvelous vistas. Although, we did not cross the border this time around, it was in the planning for another overland adventure, where we will be entering Lesotho via the infamous Sani-Pass.
With our spirits lifted we eventually hit the dirt road leading towards our friend’s farm Emden. Way to soon the dirt ended at the back door of their farmhouse, where we enjoyed a lovely evening with good friends and good food. Never getting tired of the beauty and serenity in this area. With rolling hills and interesting rock formations, that just seems to pinch the heart.
“We are not obsessed with money, we are obsessed with freedom.”
Day 3
Maluti Route -
During the next morning we left the tranquility of the farm life behind. Yet again ready for another day of hard riding, refreshed and revitalized. There is just nothing that beats starting the engine and rolling straight out on the dirt. Our next destination Eastern Cape, visiting the parents in East London.
Surel the only thing that kept us from freezing was majestic scenery of the Maluti route, nothing less than breath-taking. Having had quite a distance to travel and with the ice warning light all lit up on the instrument panel of the motorcycle, only a small reminder of what we were getting ourselves into, on this overland trip, the anecdote behind Overland Spirit was about to get more adventurous.
Our first pit stop for the day ws just outside Clocolan, the Cabin Farm Stall and Deli. You will find lots of other little shops on the same space, selling locally made down products, handmade furniture and more. We strolled around a bit and then settled at a table to enjoy the Cabin’s excellent breakfast, consisting of eggs, boerewors, biltong, chips, fried onions, tomatoes mealie pap, and preserves. Something that warmed our hearts even more, was that they are biker friendly with a place to hang your jacket and helmet.
R26 - Free State -
Subsequent to warming our bones and soaking up the sun, resembling rock hyraxa (dassies), it was time for us to get back on the motorcycle. Making headway, direction Rouxville.
En voyage o the R26, we were meandering through small towns. All of them in different stages of disintegration, Hobhouse, Wepener and Rouxville. For us this was quit an informative oad about the state of small towns out in the country. Maggie and I could not find much to do around these areas. But here is a couple of random photos. Note these photos were taken in 2011.
Wet and windy Eastern Cape
Aliwal North and Jamestown -
Day 4
Arriving in Aliwal North we stopped at the Riverside Pub and Grill. We had enough time to indulge in superb Nachtmuzik Don Pedro’s. All the while relaxing and enjoying the view from the deck. Taking in the marvelous view of the Orange river and General Hertzog Bridge. While savoring every little drop I had a call from my Dad. The news unfortunately was not good it was raining in East London, rephrase, bucketing down as my dad put it. We decided to not linger any longer and head of hoping for the best…….
Everything was going according to plan. And driving through Jamestown we even had time for a quick photo opportunity of the Dutch Reformed Church. by the time we drove into Queenstown we did not see any of the imminent rain, much to our relieve.
Day 5
Aliwal North to East London - Buckets of Rain -
But then alas approximately 80 km before East London at Stutterheim, the rain monster let loose it’s fury, and with my helmet visor completely fogged up I had to open it. Consequently rain drops started to hit my eyes feeling like bee stings, and my vision was badly compromised. On top of this we had to endure the mist and the darkness slowly stalking us as well.
Family time
We pushed threw finally arriving at East London, two very wet, cold and tired looking drowned rats. A quick hot shower, Milo and loads of shooters later the rain monster was quickly a thing of the past. Family visits always warm the heart and off course the body.
Day 6
Rain was still pouring down the next morning, and the planning had to be changed accordingly. We just generally pass the time driving around East London. Firstly to get Maggie a pair of waterproof motorcycle gloves, we got a pair “bone dry” and figured the name said it all, and with all confidence I can say it does the name proud. I also had to get me a dry pair of sneakers since my riding boots doubled as my sneakers and they were drenched. Secondly grabbing a bite at the Wimpy at the Peer. Waiting in anticipation to see if we would be able to leave some time during the day.
Day 7
East London to Jeffrey's Bay -
The gap did not come until Day 7, Well the skies were still packed with dark clouds but at around 12 am we decided to take a gamble and head of. Riding down the coast direction Jeffrey’s Bay. There was no time for long stops, since we wanted to out ride the rain, and we wanted to be in Jeffrey’s Bay before night fall.
Just passing threw Port Edward and Alexandria, making our first stop for the day at the Fish River Sun, enjoying a lovely cappuccino. From there we kept to the road and made our second stop at the Oakly Farm stall. Here we had some tea and a delectable lemon meringue tart. The rain started to close in on us again, and we had to put rubber down to out ride it one more time.
Then just like that a rainbow appeared and the rain was gone, what a beautiful day this turned out to be. When we reached Port Elizabeth and seeing that the day turned in our favor we decided to do the Van Stadens pass, a good little ride as always. Now it was time to head for Jeffreys Bay, making a turn at the Gamtoos River Mouth, as always it was spectacular. We had a wonderful stay at Seashells Luxury Apartments in Jeffrey’s Bay and was well rested and ready for yet another day of hard riding.
Not everyday is a good day, live anyway.
Not all you love will love you back, love anyway.
Not everyone will tell you the truth, be honest anyway.
Not all deals are fair, play fair anyway.
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About the Overland Spirit Team
We are Overland enthusiasts, loving the adventurous outdoors and as a result we see all the new secrets that mother nature unfold while camping. We are just loving the idea of surrendering our senses to nature.
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